Ask a Piercer:
Mandolynne & Kaspa of Amulet Arts
Meet Mandolynne Hopkins and Michael Kaspa of Amulet Arts, the first and only studio dedicated to piercing on New York’s Long Island. With a focus on exquisite jewelry and curated ears, Amulet Arts has gained a celebrity following, and the team has traveled around the country offering ear parties - everywhere from NYC and the Hamptons to Dallas and California.
Read on to learn about piercing trends, choosing the right jewelry for your piercing, and what you should know about the piercing process.
Tell me about yourself. How and why did you get into piercings?
Mandolynne: Hi! My name is Mandolynne and I am the co-owner of Amulet Arts in Patchogue, New York. My passion for piercing began over twenty years ago. As a student working on my BFA, piercing to me was math, art and science all rolled into one. Although I completed my Bachelor of Fine Arts with my thesis focused on body modification, I packed away my application for the Fakir Intensives and entered the corporate world. I still sought out training via videos, taking BBP (bloodborne pathogens training), first aid, CPR and even attending Fakir Musafar and Cleo’s lecture/ritualistic piercing ceremony.
It wasn’t until 2006 that I attended my first APP conference. In an industry that was dominated by men, I was drawn to the powerful women who inspired me. A few short months later, I sought out a formal apprenticeship with the outgoing APP president. No stranger to hard work, and not going to let anything stand in the way of my dreams, I worked full-time at Microsoft and completed a thorough apprenticeship until I was able to make piercing my career. Now, I am a 10 year business member with the APP, a Gemological Institute of America Applied Jewelry Professional graduate as well as a Pro Team Member with Buddha Jewelry Organics.
Kaspa: Hello. My name is Michael Kaspa, I’ve been a professional piercer for 19 years (20 years in July 2021), and the co-founder and co-owner of Long Island's premier body piercing and high-end jewelry gallery, Amulet Arts. I’m a Gemological Institute of America Applied Jewelry Professional graduate, a proud member of the Association of Professional Piercers, a performing artist, and a sponsored artist on the Buddha Organic Jewelry Pro Team.
✨ Fun fact: Kaspa is the only piercer in the state of New York on piercing pioneer Elayne Angel’s Piercing Bible referral list.
What trends have you been seeing for piercings or piercing combinations?
Mandolynne: Stacked lobes, chains and dangles all continue to be a trend, as is quality over quantity. People are choosing one or two well placed piercings with genuine gemstones set in gold as opposed to several in titanium.
Thoughts on push-pin vs screw style flat backs?
Mandolynne: Both have their place - you just have to know when to choose the right tool for the right job. For example, an 18g press-fit (or push-pin) style makes it easy for clients to change the look of their nostril piercing, but I wouldn't put a 7mm diamond on a press-fit post, as this would be too large for the press-fit.
Also, absolutely no butterfly backs, ever, since they harbor dirt, germs and bacteria, while stabbing you in the head.
What piercing(s) would you recommend for people getting their first cartilage piercing? Why?
Kaspa: For the ear, I’d recommend helix and conch piercings. The helix is a good starting point for people not accustomed to piercing. It offers a wide selection of jewelry options, and it’s a classic look. The conch is more of an advanced piercing, but it’s still an easy piercing to care for. It is one of our favorites.
Mandolynne: Before I can answer that, I'd have some questions for my client about their lifestyle.
Do you wear earbuds daily? If so, maybe now isn't the perfect time for a double tragus. Are you dyeing your hair a different color every 6 weeks? Maybe not a triple forward helix. Do you ride a motorcycle? How about not a 10mm prong set in a high helix. Boxing? No industrial piercing for you. I recommend that you get what you like, as long as your anatomy and lifestyle are well suited and you can take care of it properly during the entire healing period.
What do you wish people knew before coming to get a piercing?
Most of my clients are well informed about the piercing process, but for some of my newer clients, healing times and cost seem to be talking points. I have found that some clients are seeking a new piercing but haven't done much research.
Healing times can range from as quick as six to eight weeks all the way up to a full year - so depending on your commitment and lifestyle, certain piercings may not be the best choice. So I would say always do your research on the piercing you are wanting to get and seek out a reputable piercer in your area if you have any questions prior to getting your piercing.
The next topic is cost. Jewelry quality is a crucial factor for the healing process. In this case it really is true that “you get what you pay for.” Reputable jewelry manufacturers within the industry are continuously evolving to meet the needs and desires of piercers and their clients. Quality jewelry will reflect a higher price point.
What should you bring with you to your piercing appointment? What decisions should you have made beforehand?
Every state is different on what is required for your appointment, but generally you will bring a valid government issued ID for your consent form. Some people also choose to bring what I like to call a “battle buddy”: a friend that can help you get through the normal fear of getting pierced. It is also a great idea to have eaten at least four hours before your appointment, to wear suitable clothing, and where applicable, to tie back your hair.
Before coming into your appointment, you should have decided on a general vision of what you are looking to achieve. This can be ideas about piercing placement, jewelry styles or a mood board of screenshots of completed ears that you love for inspiration. From there, your piercing specialist can lead you in the right direction based on your anatomy and lifestyle.
What should you look for when deciding on a piercer and piercing shop?
The most important thing to do when thinking about getting your next piercing is do your research. Find a reputable piercer in your area that meets, but ideally exceeds, all requirements set through your state.
At a minimum this means your piercer will have a clean, inviting studio, an in depth portfolio showing healed work, and has met all standards set forth by the Association of Professional Piercers. You can find many reputable piercers through the Association of Professional Piercers website, or even send me a direct message and I will do my best to send you in the right direction.
What questions should you ask your piercer before your appointment?
After you have sought out a reputable piercer in your area that follows all local guidelines, there are some questions you may want to ask. Within the studio, you can always ask for a tour to make sure you are comfortable with the staff and environment. In my opinion this is huge! You will want to be able to easily talk to your piercing specialist and understand the ins and outs of the piercing process.
Prior to your appointment, feel free to ask your piercer anything about the piercing process. We are here to help and guide you! The most common questions are about healing time, lifestyle limitations while healing, and even if you can/should travel afterwards. No question is a bad question.
What should you expect when you show up to your piercing appointment?
When you arrive at the studio you should expect to be kindly greeted at the front counter, where you will fill out a consent form and have another opportunity to ask any questions you may have. From there, your piercing or jewelry specialist will go over your piercing ideas and look at your anatomy so they can help tour your jewelry options with you.
Once you have found your dream jewelry, your piercer will be take it into the piercing room to undergo sterilization. Feel free to ask if you can watch this process happen as well.
Now the fun part: getting pierced. Your piercer will walk you through the piercing process as it is done, explaining each step as necessary to you. Your piercer will also review how to do your daily aftercare routine.
After you get your piercing, the healing process begins. This isn’t the end of your relationship with your piercer: four to six weeks into your healing process, your piercer should recommend a check-up to ensure you are healing the best you can and adjust your jewelry as necessary.
How many piercings can I get in one session?
I personally believe that you should never get any more than two piercings in a single session. Getting any more than two or three piercings would be a brave venture and is only recommended for well experienced clients. If you get too many in a single session you may have a troublesome healing experience leading to issues such as scarring, piercing drift, and excess inflammation.
How long should I wait before getting another piercing?
If your ear goals are already set in place and you are eager to get your next one done, it is recommended that you wait at least six to eight weeks after your previous piercing to get another. That said, this isn't a rule that is set in stone, and everyone heals differently, so please reach out to your reputable piercer to see what your personal timeline would be.
What are the different gauge needles used for different piercings?
Without being too direct and giving away information that might encourage some individuals to pierce themselves, I will go over the basics. Side note; never pierce yourself! Always seek out a professional.
Various places on the body will require larger or smaller gauge piercings. This all boils down to anatomy and lifestyle. Here’s an example: If you have a larger build and are working at Amazon carrying heavy boxes throughout the day, but want to get your nipples pierced, you will need a larger gauge piercing. The reason for this larger gauge is stability. The larger the gauge, the less at risk you are for tearing your piercing channel if that box gets caught on your healing piercing.
In short, always ask your professional piercer what gauge they would recommend for you, your personal anatomy, and your lifestyle.
What aftercare recommendations do you have for the days after you get your piercing?
During the first few days of healing you may experience minor swelling, bleeding or even bruising. Don't worry, this is normal. To combat these effects, simply rinse the area with a sterile saline and dry with a hair dryer.
These steps are consistent throughout the entire healing process. Refrain from touching the area, don't twist your jewelry, and rinse with a wound wash to irrigate any buildup of lymphatic fluid.
After roughly a month of doing this, you will want to get in touch with your piercer to do a checkup. At the checkup, your piercer can see how you are healing and change your jewelry as necessary. Aftercare steps may vary from piercer to piercer, so always check with your local reputable studio to see what they recommend for you.
What are some things that you should absolutely avoid while your piercing is healing?
As stated previously, always avoid pressure on your healing piercing. Pressure is the devil for healing piercings and can give you a problematic healing experience.
Some other no-no's are using harsh chemicals to “clean” the area. We never want to introduce any chemicals like soaps, alcohol, peroxide, tea tree, etc. This will only slow down your healing and most likely cause other issues.
If we take this a step further, it is also recommended to avoid stress, poor diet and smoking. Intrinsic factors are just as important to consider as the extrinsic.
I know some symptoms of piercing infections are pus-like discharge, redness, itching, swelling, and tenderness, but what should you do if you think you have an infection?
First and foremost, professional piercers are not medical professionals. We cannot diagnose or treat infections, so seek medical attention if you truly think you have an infection. The good news? It’s probably just irritation. Many people think that if they see swelling or discharge that their piercing is infected. In reality, you will see some form of this throughout the healing process.
Always feel free to always reach out to your reputable piercer with any concerns you may have throughout the healing process or otherwise.
If you are prone to scarring, what extra precautions should you take - for both your piercing, and your aftercare?
There are a few different types of irritation bumps that can happen during healing. The most common type of scar tissue is called hypertrophic scar tissue, and it can happen because of uneven pressure on the healing piercing channel. This uneven pressure can range from a poor piercing angle to sleeping on your healing piercing.
The way to prevent scar tissue is to avoid pressure on your healing piercing at all costs. Seek out a reputable piercer in your area, which will ensure the piercing angle and jewelry quality isn't a concern.
Then really look into your daily habits. If you sleep on your left ear and always will, you may want to get your right ear pierced or invest in a travel neck pillow, which can be used on your ear during sleeping to elevate your ear off your mattress. If you wear stethoscopes, but want a tragus piercing, you may want to get something else. Just a few examples, but if you are concerned about scar tissue, ask your reputable piercer.
What are your best tips in cleaning a new piercing? Are there particular products you’d recommend?
The only product I recommend during the healing is a sterile saline rinse. Using a natural, sterile, isotonic solution like saline works with your body to rinse off those pesky lymphatic fluid crusties that get built up during healing.
If I had a top tip, it would be to remember that piercings on the outside of your body need to stay dry. Directly after rinsing with saline or showering, remember to either pat the area dry with sterile gauze or blow-dry it with your hairdryer.
What is piercing drift, and how can you prevent it from happening?
Piercing drift is when a healing piercing can become crooked. This occurs when uneven pressure is applied to the jewelry during the initial healing, causing the cartilage to “refracture” to the angle in which the pressure is being applied. This really only occurs with cartilage piercings and usually happens from sleeping on your healing piercing. It can be avoided by sleeping with your ear in a travel neck pillow. PS: This travel neck pillow is a great trick for people who sleep on their sides.
What should you know before you get pierced?
Mandolynne: Do your research! First, find a well-skilled piercer, check their credentials, then trust what they tell you. Many of us have dedicated our lives to this profession. We have two piercers in our studio with over 35 years combined experience, and we still do continuing education.
Here at Amulet Arts, we are located on an island, so our local clientele needs to know that fresh piercings should not be exposed to lakes, oceans and swimming pools. It's never a good idea to introduce bacteria into an open wound, which is exactly what happens when you go for a swim in the Great South Bay with a brand new navel piercing. Pro tip: a large waterproof bandage can help - just cover your new piercing with the bandage.
What should you bring with you to your piercing appointment? What decisions should you have made beforehand?
Mandolynne: Have a meal prior to arrival so that your blood sugar levels aren't low. Bring your state issued valid photo ID, and make sure there are no drugs or alcohol in your system. If you don't bring a smile, don't worry, you will leave with one!
Most people think they have an idea of what they want until they see just how many options are available. We walk our clients through the entire process and offer custom curations, so you don't really need to make a decision beforehand. Just book an appointment, come in, meet our staff, give us an idea of your style and lifestyle, and we can help you from there.
Kaspa: Bring your ID, and if you're a minor, your parent with all the proper paperwork. Bring a good attitude, a listening ear, and a snack to have alongside a drink. As for decisions, just the decision to get pierced and where you want to get pierced.
How long should I wait before getting another piercing?
Mandolynne: You do not want your body trying to do too many things at once, especially during a global pandemic! Wait the full healing period before adding more.
Kaspa: It depends again on the person. I always recommend that you allow healing to be mostly done before adding new piercings. If you have under 5 piercings, and depending on the location of those piercings, it can be anywhere from the next day to a six month waiting period.
If you are prone to scarring, what extra precautions should you take - for both your piercing and your aftercare?
Kaspa: Make sure you follow aftercare procedures. Also, make sure your jewelry is the appropriate size for the initial piercing time, and as well as the downsizing stage. Do your best to keep your piercing away from all trauma as best as you can and invest in a neck pillow for sleeping. Don't touch your piercing with dirty hands, and stay away from oils and creams.
What are your best tips in cleaning the piercing area during its healing time? Are there particular products you’d recommend?
Kaspa: Find an accredited APP practitioner or studio and follow their aftercare instructions. Simple saline and antimicrobial soap (when advised by your piercer) are going to be your best friend for healing piercings and keeping them healthy.
What are some things that customers should absolutely avoid while their piercing is healing?
Kaspa: Rubbing alcohol, antibacterial soap, along with any products you use for cleaning that aren't sterile. Avoid Q-Tips, cotton balls, benzyl chloride, oils, and creams, tea tree oil, Bactine, Neospoprine and your best friend with the 30 jacked up piercings that never heal - stop listening to them.
What should everyone know about aftercare?
Kaspa: Stay on top of the suggested aftercare given to you by your piercer. Don’t take days off or stop when you think it looks fine. Follow all instructions to the T, and ask questions if you aren't clear on something. Make sure you come in for your check-ups and down sizes.